National park-kinda week in the wet tropics of northern Queensland, Australia
After crossing over to the tropics I had a very long 700km drive up to Townsville, which would be my starting point for my tropical adventure.
Townsville
 |
| Magnetic island on the right, just in Townsville bay |
Townsville is quite a big city and my last stop before my tropical wanderings. As I didn’t need to stock up majorly I merely drove into the city to head straight for Castle Hill which promised me stunning views all around the city and coastline (obviously I had Castle Hill by Ed Sheeran booming away from the stereo all the way up). It sure was stunning up there, the drive was one to squeeze your bum in every sharp turn trying to avoid all the people bravely hiking up, but so worth it.
I had thought to sleep up there, but as there were huge signs stating penalties I wasn’t in the mood to receive nor pay I made my way back down after a walk around to soak in more of that glorious sunshine and the views.
I had thought to sleep up there, but as there were huge signs stating penalties I wasn’t in the mood to receive nor pay I made my way back down after a walk around to soak in more of that glorious sunshine and the views.
 |
| Google maps = best friend |
I ended up staying the night about 30k out of town at Bluewater park, with about two dozen other campers/backpackers and grey nomads haha.
You know you’re well and truly in the tropics when you have to lave the back door open (with a mozzie net ofc) to sleep. So here I finally took the time to sort out some kind of plan as to how the following week would look like.
Obviously Australia being Australia, nothing’s just 10min away from each other lol. But I'm quite happy to announce right now that I managed to see and do everything I wanted to (and more!). Just another friendly reminder that if you want something you've just got to get out and get it done.
Obviously Australia being Australia, nothing’s just 10min away from each other lol. But I'm quite happy to announce right now that I managed to see and do everything I wanted to (and more!). Just another friendly reminder that if you want something you've just got to get out and get it done.
Anyway, waking up to a soft sunrise followed by the dazzling sun the next day I was on the road by 9 again. Off to my first stop, the Wallaman falls. Not before doing a quick pitstop at the big mango in Bowen, obviously couldn't miss that !
 |
| Bluewater park |
 |
| Big mango at Bowen |
 |
| Girringun National Park |
Wallaman
 |
| Stay casso-wary folks 🤣 God I crack myself up sometimes |
About an hour off the highway you’ll find this absolutely stunner of a waterfall. I couldn’t have asked for more to start the day. The 50k drive to the waterfall from Ingham is beautiful. Driving up to the mountain, passing a few tiny towns, a couple cattle grids and consequently having to slow down/stop for the cattle chilling on the road, testing the emergency breaks and getting a heart attack from a wallaby that decided to cross the road right when I approached, some more hairpin bends and stunning views up the range and then of course the last leg through the cassowary infested national park leads to the well worth it viewing platform and start of some hiking trails around the falls and the national park.
 |
| Wallaman falls |
Cardwell pools
Next stop was a bit of a spontaneous decision, I’d found this name during a random browse of the “Australia” instagram page. As it was just a quick 10min from the highway I decided to say 'hey ho, let’s go!' to it. And thank god I did!
 |
| Cardwell pools |
How extraordinary is the colour of that water ???! Thank you ground-minerals 😍
A quick change into my swimmers, down the steps and into the gloriously blue water! It was pretty cold, don’t get me wrong (as it’s steadily flowing spring water) but very nice once you got in properly as usual (and because it was hot and sweaty outside, as usual too).
The pools are just outside the charming little town of Cardwell which is the perfect place to stop for a stretch of the legs along Victoria street, which is also the highway but has a seaside promenade, a beautiful rest area and an abundance of cafes and bakeries and restaurants for all kinds of cravings.
A quick change into my swimmers, down the steps and into the gloriously blue water! It was pretty cold, don’t get me wrong (as it’s steadily flowing spring water) but very nice once you got in properly as usual (and because it was hot and sweaty outside, as usual too).
The pools are just outside the charming little town of Cardwell which is the perfect place to stop for a stretch of the legs along Victoria street, which is also the highway but has a seaside promenade, a beautiful rest area and an abundance of cafes and bakeries and restaurants for all kinds of cravings.
I had a picnic lunch at the pools which has a grassy bit and a picnic table or two.
With a tummy full of roasted chicken with aioli on ciabata (a perfect "on the road" lunch, incidentally which I (we) discovered road tripping Portugal two years previously), I headed off to my next destination of the day.
Which was to be Tully Gorge national park.
 |
| Tully Gorge National park |
Tully Gorge
 |
| Nr°14 or 11 ? either way it's along that road |
Tully gorge national park is pretty easy accessible with the one road leading into (and out again) from Tully. So 39km down the (conveniently named) Tully gorge road you’ll find yourself surrounded with national park after kilometres of banana plantations with stunning backdrops.
Driving through Tully gorge you might notice some big numbers painted on the road, and if you’re really observant (unlike me lol) you’ll notice pretty quickly the numbers add up and are always conveniently placed at entrances to places to see such as a waterfall, a lookout, a camping ground or one of the many jump-off points to get in the river.
The Tully river provides some of the country's best Wilde water rafting opportunities, as well as kayaking.
Side note: the water is croc infested as well as having a very strong current
(hence the great rafting duhuh),
so don’t go paddling/swimming about (on your own).
Anyway, I pulled up at the campsite thinking about spending the night in this beautiful place and went for a walk around. Walking toward the water I met a man who was kayaking the river with (I think) his son and about 5 kids who were learning.He suggested I should definitely camp there to be able to fully enjoy the national park and then went on to tell me about this beautiful little waterfall at number 14.
I ended up not camping there because it was high season and I didn’t have a camping permit nor did I have cell reception to buy one, but I did head up the road and explored the nr 14 turn off as told by locals.
Needless to say I had the best afternoon stopping every- and anywhere up and back down the road letting my eyes feast on the beauty before me around every bend.
By half past 5 the sun was setting and I had set up camp at Feluga, another free camp I found thanks to Wikicamps.
I spend the evening talking to my neighbours, an Israeli couple who met in the army and were now road tripping and exploring life, just like me. Great full for such a great day and the new friends I had made I went to bed just before the heavens opened up on us and we were treated to a tropical rainstorm throughout most of the night. Well not quite a storm as it wasn't rain season, but it rained enough for the grassy field we were camped on to go swamp-y in the morning. Always fun to start your day with the thrill of 'shall I get stuck or not' 😄
Waking up to the fresh, cool morning air I swampt around to have brekkie and try to get everything as dry and clean as possible before packing up and heading northwards again toward the very famous Millaa Millaa falls.
 |
| Feluga hotel free campground |
Instead of just finding the Millaa Millaa falls, as I drove up the Palmerston hwy from just past Innisfail, I got treated by a sign stating “tourist drive waterfall circuit”. Naturally I slammed on the breaks and followed the sign heading down Theresa creek rd.
Ellinjaa
 |
Ellinjaa falls
|
This country simply does not cease to disappoint nor amaze as I drove up and down again through hill-y country to not just find the famous Millaa Millaa falls at the very end of the drive, but found myself visiting the Ellinjaa falls as well as the Zillie falls before topping it off with the Millaa Millaa falls.
So Ellinjaa falls has a short walking track to the bottom of the falls where you could easily take a dip (given the weather's warm enough because the water is quite freezing haha). When walking down I crossed a party of 3 but otherwise had the whole thing all to myself.
Right so apparently there's a viewing platform at the bottom of the Zillie falls too, so if you get out there and find it, let me know because I didn't and a couple who came back from the little path leading from the top platform said there wasn't anything down that track.
Another beautiful waterfall nonetheless !
 |
| Zillie falls |
 |
Millaa Millaa falls
|
 |
IG (<) vs. reality (^)
|
And then there's the Millaa Millaa falls. The pinnacle of my little waterfall adventure circuit. Well it was the one I had come to find, which wasn't hard tbh. All you had to do is follow the tour buses. There quite enough reason for these falls to be so rightfully famous and viewed obviously. Having the other two falls all to myself it felt a little crowed here with all the photo shoots going on and the several busloads of tourists coming and going.
Even with the crowds this waterfall is well worth a visit and there are plenty of different angles you can find to minimise people in your shot (or you can wait in line at the end of the path down there). There's a toilet, a changing room, picnic tables and a butterfly 10min walking track through some jungle along the stream. Definitely a place to have breakfast and a refreshing dip before the crowds get there!
Wooroonooran nat. park
On my way up to this fantastic little discovery I had driven through the Wooroonooran national park and had to fight the urge to stop at the plentiful signs of lookouts and waterfalls and hiking tracks (to more waterfalls). So on my way back down I stopped to my hearts content at every sign of national park entrance I could find.
This lead me to being fortunate enough to end up filling my entire day with almost exclusively waterfalls.
And oh my did I find some waterfalls 😍
 |
| Wallacha falls |
Once back to the junction I headed right for the rest of the 560m total hike toward the Tchupala falls. This informal trail leads you along the cliff edge toe eventually open up to a small staircase which leads you down to get a better view of this other hidden gem.
I presume at some point in time you could venture all the way down to the river below but the path down had been destroyed by Cyclone Larry in 2006 and only the short stairs had been rebuild yet.
Either way the falls were well worth the short hikes as, again, I had them all to myself.
 |
| Tchupala falls |
 |
Henrietta creek
|
A couple 100meters before the carpark to the trail head for the falls mentioned above there's another tiny car park that'll lead you across the creek and through to a great designated campsite. Off this campsite I found another little trail leading to this gorgeous bank on Henrietta Creek. The bank had formed as the creek flowed to the right. Steadily flowing water made for a very cold but of so welcome dip in the water.
However much I love my solo travels, having someone to spend that/those moment(s) with
would have made it (and just about everything) so so much better.
Yet instead, here I am sharing it now, almost exactly 3 months later, with you all.
On the other side of this national park I made the Josephine falls my last destination of the day.
Josephine falls
Another, rightfully, (insta)famous waterfall. This multi tiered cascade is an easy 600m (one way) walk that leads you to at least 3 viewing platforms and one for swimming. At the bottom cascade the water slides over a (semi) flat rock creating a cool natural slide into the pool below. The water is cold and the current if fairly strong (flash floods do occur without warning so be sure to stay safe). About that strong current, there were a least 20 people all around the slide and pool, swimming, chilling on rocks and sliding down the big one all good and well until a kid, crossing the current from rock to rock, got caught in the current and very quickly almost disappeared down stream. Luckily a vigilant stranger who was lounging on the rocks a couple meters down stream managed to catch the kid and pull her out of the water. Stay safe folks.
Anyway, it's a beautiful waterfall from all angles and every viewing platform. An absolute must if you're in the area
Camp was set up that night with this beautiful view in Babinda, another free campsite across the highway from the charming (and wet) town of Babinda.
Apparently there's a Golden Gumboot award that goes around for the wettest town in Australia and Babinda usually takes the crown with an annual average rainfall of about 4.2meters (!).
A free campsite, clean amenities and a good book are sometimes all you need at the end of a waterfall chasing kinda day like this.
Stay tuned for the next part where I venture into the epicentre of the tropics !
xoxo Liz
