Monday, 11 May 2015

The drive to Adelaide


Griffiths Island Lighthouse

From our saving fuel stop in Allansford we drove on to Warrnambool, the last official town on the Great Ocean Road.
Warrnambool was pretty but not much so after a visit to the information centre, as usual, we went to the store for some food basics we drove on to Killarney where we found a cheap beach caravan park with hot showers and free laundry which was quite welcome.

The next day we stopped at Port Fairy where we found this little lighthouse after a walk through the dunes.
It had cleared up to become a beautiful day so we walked around the island a bit enjoying the views and the little beaches.











After our stop at Port Fairy we took an alternative route to Adelaide which was much closer to the ocean and was surrounded by national and coastal parks which was pretty awesome to drive through with Emu's casually walking across the road and a koala casually laying on a tree branch up high enjoying his sleep in the warm sun.
We stopped at a magnificent viewing point somewhere along the Winnap-Nelson Rd where we had a view of the endless looking forest sea we had been driving through for some hours already.

After another hours drive through those endless seas of trees we felt a bit adventurous and decided to follow the signs toward the Princess Margaret Rose Caves. 
So after a long drive through some more forests, deserted roads and some dirt roads we arrived at the caves. 
We didn't go into the actual caves because it was paying, of course and because the next tour wasn't due for another hour or two. We did do a small walking trail which took us through the woods toward a very nice view of the Glenelg River.


By late afternoon we ended up at the rural township of Dartmoor where we set up camp at he Fort O'Hare free campground. 

Back on the Princess Highway we followed it, driving into state n°6 for me, South Australia with the ridiculous time difference of 30min behind of VIC, NSW, TAS, ACT & QLD in the daylight saving times. Anyway passing tiny, small and bigger towns like Mount Gambier and Millicent we ended up in Kingston SE for the night. 
Kingston SE's big thing is that it has a 17 meters tall lobster sculpture dominating the northern entrance. Somehow we managed to pass 'Larry the lobster' without noticing the poor thing as we drove out of town the following day after a good sleep at the free jetty parking area.

Larry is incidentally also known as one of the most impressive of Australia's Big Things. Now, I should probably inform you about Australia's Big Things now. 

You see Australians have something with BIG things, apparently. It all started in 1963 with the Big Scotsman in Medindie, Adelaide, by now each state has quite some of the things which could be (and are, for that matter) anything. From a Giant Mushroom in the ACT to Worlds Tallest Bin in WA. The current amount of Big Things is estimated to be over 150 according to Wikipedia. As far as I know I have seen about 3 I think, The Big Banana in Coffs Harbour (NSW), The Big Lobster in Kingston SE (SA), The Big Winch in Coober Pedy (SA), Public Purse & the Giant Pocket Watch in Melbourne CBD (Vic) and The Big Hard Rock Guitar in Surfers Paradise (Qld) so that adds up to 6 big things I did see on my travels and about a dozen I should've seen but somehow managed to miss. 

Moving on the next day we drove up to Narrung. Why, you could be asking yourself well, because someone in Kingston SE had recommended the free camp spot next to the free ferry service that brings you across the narrows between Lakes Alexandrina and Albert and because it's a pretty spot to stay the night and it's just a 10 min drive from the smal Australian Aboriginal community Raukkan. This community was the home of James, and his son David Unaipon. James was the first Australian Abroginial Deacon and his son was a writer and inventor who ended up, along with the Raukkan Church on the Australian fifty-dollar note. 
Point Malcolm Lighthouse
Oh, also note worthy is this little lighthouse. This is the only inland lighthouse in Australia and probably in the Southern Hemisphere! the 7 meter high lighthouse was built in 1878 on the eastern side of the narrows between Lake Alexandrina and Lake Albert.
We found a couch surfer in Adelaide to stay for a couple of days but it was Monday and we had said to be in Adelaide on Tuesday so we had a day to kill before getting to Adelaide. 
Luckily we got talking to some grey nomads in Narrung who told us about Victor Harbour and Port Elliot and how beautiful it was so we made a left turn on the Dukes Hwy in Tailem Bend toward the Fleurieu Peninsula instead of heading straight up to Adelaide.

-- Grey nomads are (often) retired Australians who travel around Australia in a caravan often for years at a time. --


Although the weather wasn't really on our side with heaps of wind and occasional rain it  was still a very pretty place indeed. Unfortunately we didn't see any of the shipwrecks, apparently in summer you could see some parts  popping out of the waters because the tide is lower but alas we were out of luck and saw nothing.

After spending the night in Victor Harbour we made our way up to Adelaide at last.

With being the capital city of South Australia and being the fifth-largest city in Oz you would expect something like Melbourne, Sydney or Brisbane. If you go to Adelaide with these expectations however, you will be a bit disappointed.
Adelaide is a very nice city which is why it was ranked as the most liveable city in Australia by the Property Council of Australia for 3 years in a row from 2011. 
Adelaide is a city with a plan, literally. The Light's vision plan arranged the city in 5 squares with the CBD in the middle and the Adelaide Parklands surrounding it 360°.


What I really love about the city is the free bike hire service.  Such a great way to see a city time and again.  We took the bus from our couch surfers place to the CBD and walked to the Adelaide Zoo where there was one of the many places to hire a bike. And so off we were with our bike and helmet.  We had great fun cruising  through the city and on the banks of the Torrens Lake River. We wanted to bike all the way to Port Adelaide but thought better of it when we found out it was quite a bit further away than we thought, just as everything in Oz ha! So we cruised around the city and through the botanical gardens in stead. We had a good full day in Adelaide and were happy to be able to sleep in a real (separate) bed for a change. 



Because Katrien had delayed her flight for another 2 weeks and changed it to fly out of Melbourne in stead of Perth (because we bypassed Melb's earlier this month) we had to make a decision as to where and what we wanted to go and see. 
Would we head north and drive into the outback or would we keep on driving west and cross the Nullarbor toward Perth.
Anyway we had put of this decision for a almost a week and had said to each other that we had to make a decision in Adelaide, but as we were talking about our vage plans with our host he told us that we, in theory, didn't have to decide yet as the actual north-west/ Perth-Darwin junction was in Port Augusta, another 308km north-west up the coast.

So, happy to put of the decision as to where and what to do we drove out of Adelaide toward Gladstone.
Which will be for the next post!

talk to you soon,
xoxo Lizzie 




Friday, 8 May 2015

The mighty Great Ocean Road

Cutting right to the chase and starting of where I left you,
Pumba Tour, from where we left off.


So I left you guys somewhere in between Portsea and Queenscliff in the Phillip Port Bay on the 15th of March 2015.
Queenscliff isn’t much; just a small town huddled between the bay and the ocean with a pretty little lighthouse.







We spent the night there, had a good brekkie and headed of to Geelong and Torquay; where the Great Ocean Road starts.
We slept in Torquay where we met some other guys, a group of 5 who were going to start the Great ocean road (the GOR, for further references) tomorrow too. 3 Germans, an English guy and a guy from the Netherlands.  So the next day we said goodbye (for then) in the morning because we woke up late and we still having brekkie when they were all ready to go. It only took us a about an hour after we left that we met them again at the first ‘must see point’ along the trip and by the end of the day we were pretty much seeing it together.


Welcome to the Great Ocean Road!


Split Point Lighthouse



After leaving Torquay we passed Bells Beach, another one of Australia's iconic surf beaches and Anglesea, where you can see some kangaroos who made the local golf course their home, to arrive at our first stop at Aireys Inlet.



After a short strole up to the lighthouse we drove on to the Great Ocean Road Memorial Arch.
This arch was built, interestingly enough, as a tribute to the soldiers from the First World War who were engaged in the construction of the Great Ocean Road.









About 30km up the road we arrived in Lorne where we had a coffee and a visit to the information centre.
By this time we had came across the group of guys we met the day before at every stop we made so we just kind of went on together from there which was really fun.
So after our cuppa we drove up to Erskine Falls which is about 10 k's inland from Lorne. After a good lunch somewhere at a picnic area along the road up and a winding rainforest drive up to the falls.
We took the 200 steps down to the base of the falls to enjoy the magnificent view of the waterfall huddled in-between a green damp rainforest.








Also in Lorne, after we made it back safely from the falls, we came upon Teddys Lookout. 
We had to have a bit of a drive around to get there but we got rewarded with a beautiful sunlit coastline, as the sun had just broke through the clouds to give us such a spectacular view.




As the sun had come out wonderfully we decided to drive down to the little (rocky) beach you can see on the picture to have a dip in the water. We had a nice afternoon in the water jumping and doding waves and laying on the beach in the warm sun.






As the day came to an end we started the hunt on a (cheap) place to sleep, preferably free naturally. We decided to drive down to Apollo Bay where I knew was a cheap campsite but not without bypassing the wild koalas at Kennet River.

 What a wonderful sight, this little guy was alive and kicking and actually moving about. Climbing up and down branches, posing for the many cameras he even jumped from one branch to another, almost missed it and fell down the poor sucker haha!
There we about 5 or 6 of them the rest all snoozing peacefully perched in between branches all curled up like little fuzzy balls of fur, so cute!






On this quite exciting note we ended our day driving into the campsite at Apollo Bay. I must say, a hot shower, good dinner and amusable people was very nice for a change.

Day 2 arrived with some rain which was annoying for the boys, who slept in tents and so had to pack up wet tents which is never fun but wasn't a real big deal for us.


Leaving Apollo Bay behind us we follow the GOR through the Great Otway National Park for some rainforest driving, heading for the Otway Fly Treetop Adventures.












And what an adventure that was!
We did the Otway Fly Tree Top Walk which is about a 2 km canopy walkway.
The tallest and longest canopy walkway of it's type in the world for that matter!
What an awesome experience, walking high in the damp and rainy rainforest treetops.








 After all that fabulousness we followed our feet toward the Twelve Apostles.

The Twelve Apostles ladies and gentlemen! 

(we technically the 8 apostles as the ninth collapsed in 2005 and on top of that there only ever were 9 apostles but 12 sounded better to the tourists I guess, because officially it's just called The Apostles) 

We had an absolutely grand sunset there as you can see. 















Fun fact: The Apostles were originally named the Sow and Piglets until 1922 and got the name The Apostles for tourism reasons. 


Gotta love those Aussie signs!

Our last day we went looking for shipwrecks, without succes despite being the shipwreck coast. 
Anyway, we found our way to Loch Ard Gorge from Johanna where we had spent the night on a free camp spot near the beach between the Twelve Apostles and Cap Otway.

The Loch Ard Gorge was named after the clipper ship Loch Ard who ran aground on the first of June in 1878 at the end of a three-month journey from England to Melbourne. Fifty-two souls lost their lives that misty day, the 15 year old Tom Pearce and 17 year old Eva Carmichael managed to save themselves from the sinking ship. 
231 year later the arch of the nearby Island Archway collapsed, the two unconnected rock pillars have since been officially named after the only two survivors Tom and Eva.  




After some rain, sun, open skys and clouds we headed back to the cars to find out we were all almost out of fuel. But when we stopped at the first servo we found out the entire district was out of fuel which put us in a bit of a tight spot to say the least.
While the fuel indicator went past and further lower than 'E' we passed The Arch, London Bridge and The Grotto without seeing them in the hope to be able to get to the nearest town with fuel which ended up to be Allansford.
We all filled up and parted ways as the boys were heading up to the Grampians and we had planned to follow the coast up to Adelaide.

What an awesome days we had. So much fun, so much happy days.

As I had to write and re-write this post twice now because my laptop failed on me once and I didn't save it properly the other time I'm going to just post this so that it's out of the way ;) 

Next post will be about our very own (great) ocean drive up to Adelaide!

Talk to you soon
xoxo Lizzie

            

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